Part of Karl Lagerfeld's pre-fall 2011 collection for Chanel, which was presented last week in Paris, is inspired by Justinian's wife Theodora. He describes it as "Granny takes a trip to Constantinople." Style.com has the details:
The season's theme, Paris-Byzance, Lagerfeld explained, was inspired by the Empress Theodora and the lost culture of Byzantium. In typically rapid-fire mode, he noted: "Theodora was a circus artist who became empress, like Chanel, who was a little singer and became a fashion empress." Ba-domp-bomp! Mostly, however, the reference came via Coco's Byzantine-inspired Gripoix jewelry, which is instantly recognizable even today.
Lagerfeld's take on it cross-pollinated the fifth century with sixties London. Call it "Granny Takes a Trip to Constantinople." These dolly birds wear their swingy navy peacoats trimmed with exquisite little jeweled buttons; their every square-heeled boot, black leather glove, and quilted handbag come encrusted with big glittering stones. And to upgrade that messy beehive: a filigree headband. The bohemia was possibly at its hautest in the amazing multicolored knits made decadent with gold thread, embroidered fringe, and chunky gold chains knitted right in.
An interview with Lagerfeld himself at the Invisible Moment gives more:
You create a mischievous parallel between Coco Chanel and Theodora.
Exactly. She liked jewelry with a Byzantine touch, cabochons. We see them on the mosaics and everything. The mosaics are exquisite. But in photos, a good documentary photograph has no life. I think I found a way to photograph them which portrays the emotion of their reality. You will see I do not want to influence you.
Is the idea of mosaics central to this collection?
Of course, in the embroidery. The buttons are square like Byzantine jewelry. Nothing really shines. Everything has a shimmer like mosaics. Mosaics were in lapis, pieces of glass with gold leaf underneath. It is incredible.
That is a transcription of a full interview at Chanel News. There is also more comment at Fashiontribes.com. No mention of geese anywhere...